Goa as seen by Jan Linschothen (1663-1611 CE)

Jan was lad of 16, when he left his native village of Linschothen, near Harlem in Holland, for Spain. He started working as an apprentice in a shipyard and succeeded in becoming a member of entourage of Archbishop of Goa, Vincent de Forseca, who was on a return trip to Goa from Lisbon (Portugal). Spain & Portugal had combined through marital ties to become the most powerful maritime empire in the world at the time. Jan stayed in Goa for nearly nine years and has left an eyewitness account of Portugese rule in Goa, their cruelty, many religious beliefs and practices of local non-Christians, trade, markets and glimpses of local agricultural products, meat, fish and fruit varieties which he found tasty or otherwise, dress and finery of the rich and bare existence of the poor.

Nearly a century of Goan conquest had elapsed after Alfonso Albucarque had seen that Portuguese rule and Christianity were taking roots in Goa. The ruling class was used to luxurious life and sumptuous spicy food. Portuguese introduced Slavery and John had seen the Africans and Indians being sold as slaves in Goa's weekly market. The poorest villagers used to sell their children for rice or money or became bonded laborers with their family, to rich Zamindars (landlords). Indo-Portuguese progeny of mixed marriages was fast coming up. Many of these were children of the Portuguese married to converted Indian women. They were occupying important posts in the government.

Jan has left a vivid description of local fish varieties, which were cheap but very tasty. Variety of meat, pork, beef and birds are also mentioned. Jackfruit, a local savory and karombal a sour-sweet fruit, used in cooking & pickles is still a popular product.

Ananas or Pineapple was introduced from Brazil and Papaya from Philippines. Both the fruits we owe to Portuguese, who had trade links throughout the world, along with chili which has become essential part of Indian cuisine.

The Portuguese could maintain a huge number of slaves, who did all household chores. Their women idled, gossiped, drank and smoked. Funnily both men and women had become addicted to paan or betel leaves, with accessories areca, chunam & spices, chewing all the time!

Sunday was a great occasion, when the family started for church in a procession accompanied by host of servants, carrying cushions, fans, shoes, umbrellas, betel boxes, scented water etc., Men on horse back, dressed in all their finery followed them (They aped medieval Indian Princes in pomp & show!).

Aristocratic women had started practicing purdah i.e., not moving out freely, an Indian custom. The Portuguese saw that they (their women) were well protected or rather jealously guarded.

Goa was a big city in Jan's time with a population of quarter a million, out of whom 75% were Christians. There were merchants from Arabia, Armenia, Persia, Cambay, Bengal, Peru, Ceylon, Malakka, Java, China etc., who brought specialties of their respective countries and took back spices, jewels, textiles and other Indian products. Goa was thus an international port and emporium.

Jan has written several interesting anecdotes of his personal life in Goa. He seems to have remained unmarried and when he finally left after nearly a decade's stay, his ship was wrecked but he survived and could reach his native place after thirteen years of absence. He died when he was just 48.

His travelogue "Ithinerario" became immensely popular in Holland and was translated to French, German, English and Latin. It no doubt acted as a model guide for adventurers and globetrotters of his time.

First ever map of Goa was drawn by Jan and has sketched pictures everyday life in Goa, of which 36 are available. Some of these are immortalized in contemporary classics of Goa.