Memories of Ballegavi

My early pleasant memory of Hirekerur is a trip to Ballegavi (in Shimoga District). My cousins, Madhukar, Vimal and Nalini, came to Hirekerur from Mumbai to spend their holidays. They were Baba's sister's children, and had lost their mother early. They were very much attached to my father and mother. After all Ayee, my mother was an outgoing person, played Badminton with them, learnt new Marathi songs from them and exchanged recipes and new stitching patterns with the girls. Vimal and Nalini had finished high-School graduation and Madhukar was at studying in college.

It was decided to go on a picnic. Hirekerur was a small place, with no sight-seeing places nearby. Hence it was decided to go to Ballegavi which we were told was a worth seeing place, full of ancient temples of beautiful architecture. Ballegavi was about 10 miles away form Hirekerur. There was no bus or motorable road to Ballegavi in those days. Hence Baba hired a bullock-cart for a week-end outing.

We children were thrilled to have a ride in bullock cart. The white bullock pair with painted horns and big bell-necklaces looked as big as elephant, to my child's eye! The big jamkhana(carpet) spread on hay inside the cart was colorful and inviting to roll about, till things were loaded like eatables, fruit, water and a primus stove. We also climbed, competing for space with the "driver".

The cart started its journey on the dusty road. Tinkling bells on the bullock's neck made beautiful sound when they ran. The rough road, kept us rocking all the time. It was like swinging at that tender age. It could be back breaking at this age! I thought all the time that we were going to Belgaum, head-quarters of district of that name, called 'Belganvi' by locals. It sounded very similar to Ballegavi.

My another cousin of mine, Shyam stayed at Belgaum and was a playmate. He was younger to me but good to play hide and seek. His mother had given us coconut barfi and this time also I was waiting for both!

But Ballegavi, when we reached was a disappointing sight. There was no Chandavarkar (Shyam's) house in sight. I asked Baba. "Where are we? Is this not Belganvi? Where is Shyam's house?" Everybody laughed. Baba explained that Belgaum was hundreds of miles away and this was Ballegavi, far more attractive place with beautiful carvings and stone images. I was not amused.

We camped in the courtyard of a temple which had intricate design of musicians on stone-latticed windows. It was a deserted place, with so many temples, a good place to play hide and seek! But no friends to join. But we had good time moving about, eating and relaxing. The primus stove when lit to prepare tea was a special attraction with blue flame and sonorous voice. At home every where, woodstove was common, in those days.

To Ballegavi with Kamat

Thirty years later I had occasion to visit Ballegavi with my husband. In medieval times, it was a big cultural center, which had temples dedicated to all deities of Hindu religion plus one dedicated to Tara Bhagavati, a Buddhist deity. Jina was also worshiped there and a basadi existed nearby.

© K.L.Kamat

Four Headed Brahma, Ballegavi

The famous Kodiyamatha of Kalamukha Shaivas was like a big university which welcomed students of all religions and sects. It provided food and shelter to all wandering monks and free hospital was attached to matha. The inscriptions of Ballegavi inform about the richest tradition of religious tolerance in academic world of bygone days. Ballegavi welcomed each and everyone with open arms.

There was a big shock waiting during my second visit. All the beautiful smaller sculptures and artifacts lying everywhere had disappeared. I could recognize the temple with latticed window. My husband clicked two three musician's figures, when