Bishnupur: Terracotta Temple Town

© K. L. Kamat

Kumbhapada Terracota Temple, Bishnupur

The town of Bishnupur (a.k.a. Vishnupur) in Bankura district of West Bengal, has concentration of about 28 temples, representative of this "Banglas" terracotta school. Bishnupur is 150 kilometers from Kolkata by road and 200 kilometers by train. Vishupur now a town was once royal seat of Shahi kings of the region of Mallabhum. Bir Hambir of that dynasty was an ardent devotee of "Madan Mohan", a romantic incarnation of Lord Krishna. He has constructed the famous temple here.

© K. L. Kamat

Bhagavata Purana which deals with life and achievement of Lord Krishna has been a perennial source of inspiration for builders, artisans and craftsmen. Bishnupur cluster is no exception. Walls inner and outer contain numerous poses of Krishna. Krishna stealing butter. Krishna the cowherd, Krishna playing flute, Krishna in Rasa-Krida, in water sports etc. Enjoying all happy moments with gopis.

All the temples are modeled on thatched huts with lowering roofs and square base which lend rural beauty and symmetry with local surroundings, typical of Bengal.

Battle-scenes are also carved. The big circular panel in Shyam Rai temple is surrounded with Krishna leela (dance of Krishna with gopis) in two lines. Navanakunjara (Motif of nine women carved in a marching elephant form) is a tourist attraction.

Jor Banglo, Radhe-Shyam and Shyam Rai, temples are best preserved. Constructed by king Raghunatha Singh these are unique Vaishnava temples in the land of Goddess Kali. They were constructed in 17th century.

Shyam Rai temple has thatch type roof as well, but five small towers are installed on top. Ras-manch has huge pyramidal plinth.

© K. L. Kamat

Terra-cotta Artist at Work

Moving on cycle-rickshaw in this temple town is a unique experience. Terracotta toys, jewelry, conch bangles and silk sarees along with famous Bankura clay horses are a great attraction.