To Ballegavi by Bullock Cart
by Jyotsna
Kamat
First Online: March 02, 2019
Page Last Updated: February 17, 2024
To Ballegavi on a bullock-cart (C 1943)
My early pleasant memory of Hirekerur is a trip to Ballegavi. (Shimoga Dististrict of Karnataka). My cousins, Madhukar, Vimal, and Nalini, came to Hirekerur form Mumbai to spend their holidays. They were Baba's sister's children and had lost their mother early. They were very much attached to my father and mother. After all, Ayee, my mother was outgoing, played shuttle-cock with them, learnt new Marathi songs from them and exchanged recipes and new stitching patterns with the girls. Vimal and Nalini had finished High-School graduation and Madhukar was at college.
It was decided to go on a picnic. Hirekerur was a small place, with no sight-seeing places near by. Hence it was decided to go to Ballegavi which we were told was a worth seeing place, full of ancient temples of beautiful architecture. Ballegavi was about ten miles away form Hirekerur. There was no bus or motorable road to Ballegavi in those days. Hence Baba hired a bullock-cart for a week-end outing.
We children were thrilled to have a ride in bullock cart. The white bullock pair with painted horns and big bell-necklaces looked as big as elephant, to my child's eye! The big jamkhana(carpet) spread on hay inside the cart was colorful and inviting to roll about, till things were loaded like eatables, fruit, water and a primus stove. We also climbed, competing for space with the "driver" .
The cart started its journey on the dusty road. Tinkling bells on the bullock's neck made beautiful sound when they ran. The rough road, kept us rocking all the time. It was like swinging at that tender age. It could be back breaking at this age! I thought all the time that we were going to Belgaum. Head quarters of district of that name, called ‘Belganvi' by locals. It sounded very similar to Ballegavi.
My another cousin Shyam stayed at Belgaum and was a playmate. He was younger to me but good to play hide and seek. His mother had given us coconut barfi and this time also I was waiting for both!
But Ballegavi, when we reached was a disappointing sight. There was no Chandavarkar (Shyam's) house in sight. I asked Baba. "Where are we? Is this not Belganvi? Where is Shyam's house?" Everbody laughed. Baba explained that Belgaum was hundreds of miles away and this was Ballegavi, far more attractive place with beautiful carvings and stone images. I was not amused.
We camped in the courtyard of a temple which had intricate
design of musicians on stone-latticed windows. It was a deserted place, with so
many temples, a good place to play hide and seek! But no friends to join. But we
had good time moving about, eating and relaxing. The primus stove when lit to
prepare tea was a special attraction with blue flame and sonorous voice. At home
everywhere, woodstove was common, in those days.
To Ballegavi with my husband 30 Years Later
Thirty years later I had occasion to visit Ballegavi with my husband. In
medieval times, Ballegavi was a big cultural centre, which had temples dedicated to all
deities of Hindu religion plus one dedicated to Tara Bhagavati, a Buddhist
deity. Jina was also worshipped there and a basadi existed nearby.
The famous Kodiyamatha of Kalamukha Saivas was like a big university which
welcomed students of all religions and sects. It provided food and shelter to
all wandering monks and free hospital was attached to matha. The inscriptions of
Ballegavi inform about the richest tradition of religious tolerance in academic
world of by gone days. Ballegavi welcomed each and everyone with open arms.
There was a big shock waiting during my second visit. All the beautiful smaller
sculptures and artifacts lying everywhere had disappeared. I could recognize the
temple with latticed window. My husband clicked two three musician's figures,
when the watchman appointed to guard the deserted temple came running and
shouted "Photography is prohibited!" Kamat, my husband quietly closed the camera
and left the place.
Kamat however developed and processed some of the rare sculptures which he had
clicked before the arrival of the watchman. He took image of the carved
musicians on the stone window-lattice of the temple and painted a border on one
of my sarees. For years I proudly wore that saree reminiscent of my two
historical visits to Ballegavi.
